Anyway here is her first real view the next day. This big hole averages 10 miles across, 5,200 ft. deep from the south rim and is over 100 miles long. The north rim is actually 1,000 ft higher but you can't really tell by looking at it. Visually it seems at about the same height.
We walked along the rim for half the day stopping at Bright Angel for some refreshment. While there I saw a brochure for Phantom Ranch, down at the bottom and figured well it can't hurt to ask. Guess what, we were able to make reservations for the next night in the dorm and the night after that in a cabin. People reserve it a year in advance and we were lucky enough to show right after some last minute cancellations. Too cool!!!
This is one of those hikes you want to do in your life if for nothing else than to say you did it.
The next day we hiked down canyon via the Kiabab trail with nothing but our camelbacks full of water and a change of clothes on our back. Phantom Ranch provides the beds, linen, hot showers, soap and towels, breakfast, dinner and various snacks. This is the best way to go, who needs a 40lb pack, let the mules carry what you need.
The Kiabab is 5,200 vertical ft. of continuous steep and very deep steps. No water, no flat parts, just 9 miles of down, down, down and more down. Talk about knee crushers, mine were absolutely killing me the next day. If you ever get a chance to go, get into shape first, then do it. But! take the Bright Angel trail both down and back up, and make sure you have two walking sticks. The Kiabab trail is for the uninformed or masochistic (guess which we were).
You also want to try real hard to get a cabin at Phantom (or pack in a tent if you must). Never stay in the dorm! Getting 4.5 hours of sleep between multiple tough days of hiking doesn't cut it. You see lights out in the dorm is around 10pm but people are stubling around, going to the bathroom, snoring, etc. so it's very hard to get any sleep (even with the earplugs and nighttime tylenol I brought). Even worse, wake up call for the first breakfast is 5am (yes 5am) and many people go straight from breakfast to hiking back up to the rim. So the lights in the dorm are all on, people are getting ready and packing, etc. You will be up and 5am and you will not be able to go back to sleep.
The second day we did a 12 mile hike along the bottom of the canyone to this waterfall and back. The hike is actually prettier, in my opinion, than either the Kiabab or the Bright Angel trail down from the South Rim to Phantom.
Moreover, since it does a gradual gain of 1,200 ft. in elevation over it's 6 mile length each way, it's actually pretty easy. It's a good off day between your knee crusher day getting down into the canyon and your exhausting day getting back up.
While on this off day hike we also met Maverick. Tracy's into dirty, old, men so as you can imagine I had some trouble pulling her away from this stud.
And yes I must admit he is just a bit more studly than I. You see Maverick is 80 years old. He lives at the South Rim and decided to celebrate his 80th year by trying to do 80 Rim to Rim's in that year. A Rim to Rim is 24 miles from the South Rim to the North Rim, 5,200 ft down and 6,200 up the other side (or vice versa). This nut wanted to do 80 of them in one year! The year of his 80th birthday! Outrageous!
Let me put this another way. 80 Rim to Rim's would be 1,920 miles and almost a million vertical ft. (456,000 vertical ft. down then 456,000 back up) all in one year, for an 80 year old man!
Maverick was nice enough to stop hiking and talk to us a little while, well OK mostly Tracy flirted with him. Turns out he wasn't going to make 80 Rim to Rim's that year. Nope, he had finished number 80 well before the year was up, so he figured what the heck, I'll try for 100! But he wasn't on his 100th Rim to Rim when we met him. Nope this was number 101 and he still had 2 weeks to go before the year was up! He figured he might get in 110 Rim to Rim's. 80 years old, over 100 Rim to Rim's, in one year!!!! I swear this is all true. A physical therapist we met at Phantom told us about him and to keep an eye out, the day before. We got lucky and ran into him while hiking the next day. Talk about older people accomplishing amazing things!!! There's a ghost writer working on a novel about him which you should be able to get on Amazon soon. Proceeds go to a foundation he set up to encourage kids to be more active.
Leaving Maverick to finish his hike, we headed back to Phantom Ranch. That night we got to spend the night in a private cabin, yeah sleep! We had the first dinner seating-- rib eye steak, green beans, corn, baked potato, salad, cornbread, etc. I wolfed down every bite, went back for seconds and it all seemed to dissappear before ever hitting my stomach (remembrance of what it was like when I was 18 years old). Then we went to bed.... fast asleep by 8pm!
The next morning we were up for that 5am breakfast and on the trail heading up as soon as it was light enough, about 7am. It's 12 miles and still that 5,200 vertical feet back up the Bright Angel trail (Bright Angel is longer than Kaibab but also much nicer). The first half up to Indian Garden camp area, where there is water available, isn't too bad; but the second half is mostly switchbacks straight up a 3,000 ft cliff. Regardless, it really is true what they say, going down is harder (or at least more painfull) than going back up. We got to the Rim at 1:15pm; having almost beat the mule's. We made it!!!!
We also got a cool surprise when we got back to our motorhome. My dad and stepmom had left us a message offering to drive 11 hours down to Valley of Fire State Park to meet us for Thanksgiving if we would drive 6 hours up to it. So we did; but that's another story.... :)